Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
